Showing posts with label Cutting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cutting. Show all posts

Fabrics for Merchandisers

An apparel merchandiser should know about fabric as it plays a significant role in apparel manufacturing.  Fabric cost constitutes 60 to 70% cost of the product. So, the selection of fabrics should be accurate to quote competitive prices as well as quality concerns. Effective skill in the selection of fabric and its utilization optimizes garment quality and profits. 

Introduction to Cutting Room

In the apparel industry, the cutting room has a significant role as garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, the fabric is cut into components.

Cutting Room Organogram

Cutting section may be organized as below to run cutting room smoothly.

Cutting Room Flow Chart

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, fabric is being cut into components. The cutting process includes number of sub-processes and flow of the processes are as following;

Process Description of Cutting Room

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, the fabric is cut into components. The cutting process includes a number of sub-processes and the flow of the processes, each process is briefly explained in the following;

Concept of garment symmetry

Understanding the modes of marker making and spreading are important concepts. Garment symmetry is the fundamental concept of design that defines how a garment looks and how it is made.

Pattern and cutting related terms

A pattern is a two dimensional templates or guides of garment components such as collar, cuff, pocket etc. used for cutting fabric to form a garment. Pattern may be made by designers or professional pattern maker.

Fabric Put-up and package

Fabric put-up is the manner in which the fabric is folded and/rolled by fabric supplier. Fabric characteristics and put-up determine the type of markers that are used and how the fabric is spread and cut.

Methods of marker planning

The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization. One garments cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency of marker.

Requirement of marker planning

Apparel industry has always paid great attention to marker planning because cutting room cuts fabric which worth about 60% of garment cost.

Dimension of marker

Marker has two dimensions

Marker mode

The marker mode is determined by fabric symmetry and the directionality of the fabric. The term nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional it is different from end to end and it is created by its structure (cut and uncut piles, finish, or a directional print). there are three types of marker modes:

Types of Marker

Marker type significantly depends on the form in which the fabric is presented for cutting, fabric as well as garment symmetry, and arrangement of pattern piece on the marker.

Marker efficiency

Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in garment parts. The area not used in garment parts is waste.

Fabric spreading construction

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.

Methods of fabric spreading

The methods of spreading which the industry users can be divided into:

Fabric Spreading Equipment

Basic spreading equipment consists of spreading surfaces, spreading machines, fabric control devices, and fabric cutting devices.

Requirement of spreading process

Spreading quality may be consistent across all products or may vary with the specific product being produced, the targeted price range, and the quality standards and specifications of the buyer of the finished goods.

Fabric losses in spreading

Spreading loss is the loss of fabric outside the marker. The various fabric losses outside the marker can be broadly classified into different groups, namely ends of ply losses, ends of piece losses, edge losses, splicing losses, remnant losses etc, which are discussed below:

Cut order planning

Cut order planning are cutting order that direct marker planning and lay planning. Optimal use of material and cutting system are important consideration in planning cutting order.