1. Sorting
After cutting, cut components are sorted according to production system. The simplest method of sorting cut parts/bundle is to separate and placed all components of a garments together. Size wise sorting and in case of multiple colors are cut in a single lay, color wise sorting are required.
2. Position marking
When required, this operation is carried out to mark components with guides for sewing and other operation such as drill mark, which is used for marking pocket position, dart length as discuss earlier chapter.
3. Ply marking/numbering
To identify cut parts for further operation, the plies are marked with a small sticker usually on the back of the cloth, that contains the style#, size and consecutive ply number starting with #1 (nearest the table). This numbering is duplicated on every cut bundle. Therefore, in the sewing room, sewing operators can match plies together numerically ensuring all parts of a garment come from one layer of fabric and are assembled correctly. This process also referred to as sobar ticketing for many years from the brand of machine used.
- Ply tickets may be self adhesive stickers, applied with a hand held machine similar to a grocery marking machine. These devices can be set to number once per digit, or twice per digit (for face to face pairs) before advancing to the next control number.
- Special Ply tickets. For knits, loose weaves, or pile fabrics where the self adhesive stickers will not hold, sobar marking is done with a paper ticket that is stapled to the fabric. This staple is an open staple that is removed later by pinching the ticket and pulling the staple out with the ticket. Unlike the self adhesive sticker which might be missed and left in the garment, these MUST be removed later by the sewing operator, or the staple poses a safety hazard in the finished product.
Ply marking is important to avoid shade variation in a garment when there is the slightest chance that the fabric shade might be different from one ply to the next. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other value added processes like printing and embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the components. If there is layer number in each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together.
Fig: sobar ticketing device
4. Indication of right side
Some fabric has an obvious difference in face and back. In such cases there is no problem for operator to identify at a glance how to grasp and manipulate the pieces. The need for right side indication comes where there is a close similarity between the face and back of the fabric, and when it is important for the fabric face to be on the outside of the garment. For example, the face may be slightly glazed intentionally, but it cannot be seen easily under factory light condition. A sobar ticket, placement of ply number or adhesive label may be used for right side indication.
5. Bundling
As per the production system requirement a certain number of pieces with all components are tied together. This process is known as bundling.
Many sewing rooms use the bundle system, where small batches of garments move from one workstation to another in a control way. Batches may all be the same size (ten units, one dozen, two dozen etc.)
In many factory use teamwork systems that eliminate the bundle. In this case, teams work directly from stacks.
Another unit production system involves the use of overhead rails, often powered. Stack of cut work are fed to a loading station and an operator loads the relevant parts to a specially designed hanger.
6. Bundle ticketing
Wherever bundles are used, they are accompanied by a bundle ticket. Tickets provide basic information about the work: style number, the size of garment, number of garment in the bundle and the date of issue.
E.g. such as;
1. Order no. : 0000
2. Bundle no. : 0000
3. Style no. : 0000
4. Qty in bundle : 12 pcs.
5. Size : M
6. Section : Sleeve
7. Date of issue : 00/00/00
The purpose of bundle ticketing is to monitor the progress of each specific garment, ensure that all the correct parts are assembled together and compensate operators for their work on each garment and facilitating quality control.
7. Bundle Sorting/grouping
After the cut bundles are separated, (marked) and tied, the bundles are sorted and grouped together however is necessary for the sewing process. Parts that will be sewn together in the early stages of production will be tied together.
8. Re-Cutting
During the process of bundling, if the method of damage control that is used is re-cutting, the bundle processors will look for tissue paper interspersed in each cut bundle prior to tying the bundle. (See Re- Cutting below)
No comments:
Post a Comment