Quality In Fabric Cutting

Cutting Quality is achieved by cutting every part to be exactly as the pattern for that part with no adverse effects on the fabric. The higher the fabric is spread, the greater the challenge to cut every part with the best quality. Cutting quality is measured by several factors related to how the cutter controls the cutting process.

1. Cutting accuracy
Cutting accuracy is a measure of how closely the cutter splits the pattern line in the marker.

2. Cutting perpendicular to the Table
A second measure of cutting quality is that the cutting blade cuts the fabric perpendicular to the table, so every part is the same shape and size as the pattern from the marker. The challenge of a round knife is that the cut edge is a concave shape, only straight when the cutting machine is moving in a straight line. When cutting curves, the round knife is only effective on low lays (few plies)

3. Fabric Edge in the bundle
Another measure of cutting quality is the quality of the edge of the fabric. If the fabric is cut cleanly without fraying, this is considered good quality.

4. Heat during Cutting
Heat may be a factor during cutting if the lay is dense or particularly high. Burning, singing or melting the cut edge is poor quality. Fabrics of thermoplastic fibers are particularly sensitive to heat. The cut surface may actually be melted into a solid block of plastic if heat is not controlled. Controlling lay height, or using methods of cooling the blade such as the use of wax paper spread periodically during spreading can keep the blade temperature in a safe range. Air blowers and in the case of industrial fabrics, the use of Oil sprays may also be used to cool the cutting blade.

5. Accuracy of Markings 
Additional factors of cutting quality are the accuracy of auxiliary markings on the pattern. Drill holes must be perpendicular to the table to appear in the correct place on every ply. Notches must be made perpendicular to the table, and must be deep enough to be visible, but not so deep as to cut past the seam allowance.