Pattern and cutting related terms

A pattern is a two dimensional templates or guides of garment components such as collar, cuff, pocket etc. used for cutting fabric to form a garment. Pattern may be made by designers or professional pattern maker.

1. Basic Block
A basic block is a set of pattern pieces for the simplest garment of particular type that reflects a set of measurement and fit for the sample size. Seam allowances are not included in block. The term basic block, sloper, and master pattern may be used interchangeably. A apparel firm have basic blocks for each types of product in their product line: shirts, pants, jackets, and so on.

2. Style block
A style block is a variation of the basic block that includes modifications of parts of the basic block to include design ease and positioning of design feature.

• Design or styling ease includes structural features that are built into a style to provide the silhouette and appearance the designer wants.

• Positioning relates to the designers’ decision on where to place pockets, trims, hem, and connecting seam for garment components in a style block. Positioning decisions affect the comfort and aesthetic appearance of a garment and incorporated in style block.

3. First pattern
A first pattern interprets the designer’s sketch into two dimensional shape for each garment component. A first pattern may be developed by manipulating a basic block or a style block, or by drafting or draping.

What is drafting?
Drafting is a method of development that builds pattern shapes from specific measurement. Pattern maker may use a computer aided design system to draft patterns or, manipulate basic block. In the apparel industry, pattern development through flat pattern or drafting technique may be called drafting.

What is draping?
Draping is a method of pattern development which involves developing a pattern by manipulating fabric usually muslin directly on a body from.

4. Production pattern
Production patterns are accurate, final pattern that meet all fit, quality and production requirements. Production pattern are eventually graded into all sizes that a manufacturer intends to produce.

5. Graded pattern
Finalized production patterns are graded into specified sizes. Pattern grading is the process of increasing and decreasing the dimensions of each pattern piece according to a buyer’s grade rule of proportional change. Grade rule is a proportional difference in measurement between sizes in the specific measurement.

Graded pattern are used to make marker. A pattern is a diagram or an arrangement of the pattern pieces for size or sizes that are to be cut at one time. Pattern piece that fit together well in a marker allow better fabric utilization and reduce cost of product. Fabric utilization is affected by many factors, such as pattern shape, interlocking of pattern pieces, and fabric selection and width.

6. Pattern Grain Line

The pattern grain line is a line drawn on each pattern piece (from end to end) to indicate how the pattern should align lengthwise grain of the fabric. Regardless of where the grain line is drawn on pattern, it will always places on the fabrics so that the grain line is parallel to the selvage edge. Direction of grain line as follows;

I. straight/ vertical grain line 
Vertical grain lines are drawn parallel to center for garment cut on straight grain 

II. Bias grain line

bias grain lines are drown at right angle to center (45­0 angle for true bias).

III. Crosswise grain line

Crosswise grain lines are drawn at right angles to center for garments cut on crosswise grain 

7. Grain line arrows
Grain line carry an arrow mark at end of the line either both or one side of the line depending on fabric character.

I. End to end
An arrows placed at both ends of the grain line indicate that the top of the pattern may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric (for fabrics without a nap).

II. Top or bottom
An arrow placed at the top or the bottom of the grain line indicates that the pattern must be placed in one direction only (for fabrics with a nap).

8. Pattern instruction
To enable the garment to be made up correctly the following instruction must be marked on the pattern.

1. The name of each piece
2. Center back and center front
3. The number of piece to be cut
4. Folds
5. Balance mark
6. Seam allowance
7. Construction line
8. Grain line