Process Description of Cutting Room

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, the fabric is cut into components. The cutting process includes a number of sub-processes and the flow of the processes, each process is briefly explained in the following;

1. Pattern / Marker

According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual markers, these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in the CAD system patterns are made on the computer. Later using a plotter markers are made on a sheet. In the second case cutting department receive a ready marker.

2. Cut ratio receiving

Prior to cutting, the cutting department gets a job sheet from the planning department or merchandiser, or production manager that includes the total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, the size ratio of the garments, and color-wise size break up. According to the size and color ratio cutting team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and the number of layers to be cut are planned in this stage.

3. Fabric receiving

Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In the case of multiple color orders, the color-wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).

4. Fabric relaxation

This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During the rolling of fabric, it gets stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.

5. Spreading (Fabric Layering)

In this stage, the fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problems. Spreading is done by manual layering or an automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the fabric, the fabric edge is aligned at one side.

6. Marker Making

After layering of a lay, pre-made paper patterns (or ready markers made by the plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called marker making. In a marker, all garment components are placed.

7. Cutting

Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using a straight knife or other cutting means. In the cutting process, garment components are separated. On the basis of pattern shape, different cutting methods/machines are selected.

8. Numbering

Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all components from the same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is a maximum chance of mixing the components. If there is a layer number in each component then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together.

9. Sorting

According to the production system (Make through, progressive bundle, or one-piece flow system), cut components are sorted. In sorting all components of a garment placed together. Size-wise sorting and in case multiple colors are cut in a single lay, color-wise sorting will be required.

10. Bundling

As per the production line requirements, a certain number of pieces with all components are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style name, size number, and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage, the cutting is ready to send to the production line for stitching.