a. Moving the spreading machine aside
The spreader will park the Spreading Machine and remove catchers if they were used. The spreading machine must be parked back far enough from the lay to permit the cutter to work. When space is a premium, the spreader may simply drive the machine further down the table, later to move it back as the beginning of the marker is cut and removed from the table.
b. Facilitate shrinkage of the lay
b. Facilitate shrinkage of the lay
If the lay is knit, the lay would then be cut into blocks and left on the table overnight to relax (shrink back). These blocks are cut at natural splice sections in the lay. The cutter would cut between the parts across the width of the goods. This releases the tension in the plies closest to the table.
c. Recheck the marker
c. Recheck the marker
The marker is then placed on the spread. The control selvedge is aligned with the selvedge on the control side. The beginning line is aligned at the beginning of the spread. The spreader will then recheck to see that the fabric reaches the end of the marker, and that every ply of fabric is wide enough for the marker.
d. Fastening the Marker to the Spread
There are several popular methods of fastening the marker to the lay of fabric. It is necessary to keep the marker from shifting during the cutting process.
i. Cloth weights are two to ten pound metal weights that hold the marker down on the lay. Cloth weights are used whenever other methods of fastening the marker are not possible due to the nature of the fabric. Cloth weights are often used with low lays (slippery or expensive fabrics).
ii. Lay tacks (sharp staples) are the most common method of fastening the marker to the lay. Using a lay tacker a device similar to an open paper stapler, the spreader will press lay tacks into the marker and upper layers of the fabric. This will stabilize the lay and keep the marker in place. For best results (to prevent damaging the finished fabric parts) the spreader should apply the lay tacks to the waste areas between the parts. Use of the lay tacks on the parts is only permissible if the fabric will not show pin holes as a result.
iii. Straight T-pins are used on softer woven fabrics such as wools and wool blends, and terry cloth. These 1 ½” to 3” long pins have a “T” shaped head, and are driven down through the marker into the lay. T-pins more securely hold the marker and lay together. Whereas if the lay tacks are placed in the waste area, and discarded during the cutting process, T-pins must be carefully removed after cutting to ensure that they do not travel with the bundles to the cutting room.
iv. Light spray adhesive is some times used in conjunction with cloth weights. In this method, the underside of the marker is sprayed with a rubber based adhesive. This adhesive is tacky enough to hold the marker paper to the top layer of fabric in the lay, but is easily separated after cutting. To protect the face of the top layer of fabric, the top layer must be face down, so it is most often used with closed marker preparations.
v. Needle Plate. The needle place is a quick set device to stabilize the marker and upper layers of fabric. The cutter positions the place and presses the needles into the fabric. Care must be taken to ensure that the pins do not penetrate the body area of the patterns.
vi. Cloth clamps are manually set spring clips that hold the edge of a cut bundle square and prevents shifting of the plies. Cloth clamps are particularly useful when cutting small parts. Holding the clamp, the cutter can keep their fingers safely away from the cutting blade. After cutting a part away from the lay, the cloth clamp will permit the cutter to keep the cut bundle intact to facilitate notching the inside edge of the bundle.
vii. Mylar plastic and Vacuum. Servo cutting and computerized cutting require a more secure way of holding fabric to the table. By using vacuum technology and mylar plastic to trap the air in the lay, the entire lay can be secured to the table. Removing the air from between the plies can also increase cutting productivity permitting taller spreading heights (more plies) under the cutting machine. Vacuum does, however increase the density of the lay, so increased friction and heat buildup must be considered.
d. Fastening the Marker to the Spread
There are several popular methods of fastening the marker to the lay of fabric. It is necessary to keep the marker from shifting during the cutting process.
i. Cloth weights are two to ten pound metal weights that hold the marker down on the lay. Cloth weights are used whenever other methods of fastening the marker are not possible due to the nature of the fabric. Cloth weights are often used with low lays (slippery or expensive fabrics).
ii. Lay tacks (sharp staples) are the most common method of fastening the marker to the lay. Using a lay tacker a device similar to an open paper stapler, the spreader will press lay tacks into the marker and upper layers of the fabric. This will stabilize the lay and keep the marker in place. For best results (to prevent damaging the finished fabric parts) the spreader should apply the lay tacks to the waste areas between the parts. Use of the lay tacks on the parts is only permissible if the fabric will not show pin holes as a result.
iii. Straight T-pins are used on softer woven fabrics such as wools and wool blends, and terry cloth. These 1 ½” to 3” long pins have a “T” shaped head, and are driven down through the marker into the lay. T-pins more securely hold the marker and lay together. Whereas if the lay tacks are placed in the waste area, and discarded during the cutting process, T-pins must be carefully removed after cutting to ensure that they do not travel with the bundles to the cutting room.
iv. Light spray adhesive is some times used in conjunction with cloth weights. In this method, the underside of the marker is sprayed with a rubber based adhesive. This adhesive is tacky enough to hold the marker paper to the top layer of fabric in the lay, but is easily separated after cutting. To protect the face of the top layer of fabric, the top layer must be face down, so it is most often used with closed marker preparations.
v. Needle Plate. The needle place is a quick set device to stabilize the marker and upper layers of fabric. The cutter positions the place and presses the needles into the fabric. Care must be taken to ensure that the pins do not penetrate the body area of the patterns.
vi. Cloth clamps are manually set spring clips that hold the edge of a cut bundle square and prevents shifting of the plies. Cloth clamps are particularly useful when cutting small parts. Holding the clamp, the cutter can keep their fingers safely away from the cutting blade. After cutting a part away from the lay, the cloth clamp will permit the cutter to keep the cut bundle intact to facilitate notching the inside edge of the bundle.
vii. Mylar plastic and Vacuum. Servo cutting and computerized cutting require a more secure way of holding fabric to the table. By using vacuum technology and mylar plastic to trap the air in the lay, the entire lay can be secured to the table. Removing the air from between the plies can also increase cutting productivity permitting taller spreading heights (more plies) under the cutting machine. Vacuum does, however increase the density of the lay, so increased friction and heat buildup must be considered.
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