2. Marker:
Marker is sheet of paper in which all patterns are marked in the best possible arrangement.
3. Grain line
Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in case of knitted fabric. Only the exception is seen for bias cut.
4. Cut order planning
Cut order planning determine how many marker are needed, how many of each size should be in each marker, and the # of ply that will be cut with each marker.
Marker dimension
- Width: Marker is fit to the cutable (useable portion of the fabric) width of fabric.
- Length : Marker length depends on following
- Sectional/Blocked marker
- Continuous marker
Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the total fabric that is actually used in garment. The area which is not used in garment parts is waste. Marker efficiency depends on how tightly the pattern piece fit together within the marker.
Efficiency = Area of Pattern/Area of Marker * 100
6. Factor affecting marker efficiency or consumption
1) Fabric character
Following fabric characteristics frequently limit the arrangement of pattern piece.
- Difference in face and back
- Lengthwise directionality
- Crosswise symmetry
- Need for match fabric design
- Length of design repeat
- Fabric width
3) Grain orientation
- Symmetric: Same side to side. e.g.
- Asymmetric: Not same side to side. e.g.
- Directional: End to end is not same e.g.
- Reversible: Same Face and back. e.g.
- Open marker : marker made with full pattern piece e.g. opened with/rolled fabric
- Closed marker: Marker made with half pattern piece. E.g. tubular knit fabric.
- Naps one way (NOW)
- Naps up and down (NUD)
- Naps either way (NEW)