Types of Garment Samples Required for Order Execution

An apparel sample is a small quantity of merchandise that is given to its buyer having no commercial value to evaluate the product or evidence of quality before and/or during production. Sample making is a costly, time-consuming, and constrained process but essential for apparel production. To make the product salable buyers usually require different samples in different phases to perfect the product lines.

1. Sample Development Procedure 

Apparel samples are developed in various stages from line development to shipping. Usually, buyers develop line concepts and source production globally as production contractors source buyers simultaneously to sell production capacity. During the creative and technical design phase, designers develop specifications prior to requesting samples. Contractors receive specifications also called product development manual (PDM) from buyers and proceed to develop typical samples accordingly.

2. Sample Materials 

Depending on the availability of materials and the purpose buyer may suggest which materials should be used to make typical samples. There are two types of material sources either “make to stock” or “make to order”. When the source is “make to stock” contractors are able to prepare all samples with actual materials, unless otherwise closed substitute materials may be used to make initial samples such as prototype, fit, etc.

3. Sample Room and Responsibility

The sewing facility might have an organized and well-equipped sample section to produce the required samples. Responsible persons in the sample development process including merchandiser, sample in charge, pattern maker, sample sewer, and quality controller have to possess the professional attributes needed for the production of samples. Everybody has a definite area of responsibility regarding their own work and that of their co-workers. The sample room personnel constantly work with changing styles, so their versatility, adaptability, technical know-how, and good knowledge about samples and their purposes, is in most cases more important to perfect samples.

4. Sample Evaluation

When done all samples are sent to buyers within their lead-time. Upon arrival, responsible personnel at the buyer’s end evaluate the samples’ fit and measurement on a dress form or on the fit model. Other than fit they also evaluate workmanship, aesthetics, performance, and other specifications related to styling, and whether it serves the purpose. If found everything is accurate then they approve it unless otherwise recommend re-submission. All typical samples that are developed might be approved prior to stepping forward.

Few buyers sealed the samples after approval with the predetermined colored tags as evidence and/or to prevent tampering by the factory. Usually, buyers assign different colors for typical samples such as black seal for fit, red seal for preproduction, and gold seal for production.

5. Types of samples

Samples that are requested to develop may vary from one buyer to the next depending on their business and/or sourcing strategy. As per the buyer’s SOP sewing contractors are responsible for developing and submitting typical samples with their chronology and lead time. Usually, samples are named after their purposes. All samples which are defined below may not be necessary for all buyers, in most cases fit, preproduction, and production samples may be recommended.

1. Design Prototype

A sample is said to be a design prototype that is cut and sewn from the first pattern to evaluate the styling. Multiple experiments with the pattern and prototype may be needed to perfect the design. Most of the buyers employ sample makers to produce prototypes others may request the contractor to develop them. The use of basic block and or virtual prototyping may limit the number of sewn prototypes and increase consistency to perfect the design. Buyer may recommend modifications to design samples for fit and appearance. A final prototype may be prepared for presentation during line adoption.

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Available	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Line Adoption

Synonyms: design sample, Development sample, proto sample etc.

2. Fit Sample

The samples that are developed from the first pattern to evaluate the desired fit of the garment called fit samples. Buyers evaluate the sample either on a dress form or on the fit model. If all measurements remain accurate as to size specification but don’t fit perfectly, buyers then issue a revised spec to the factory. The factory then produces and resubmits another set of fit samples in accordance with the revised spec, and the review process is carried out again. If buyers are happy with the fit finally approve the factory to proceed to preproduction. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Available	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Fit evaluation

Synonyms: First sample, black seal sample 

3. Salesman Sample

The samples which are developed to facilitate wholesale marketing at the buyer’s end, called salesman samples. When the product lines are sold to retailers at wholesale markets and/or by sales representatives who call on retail buyers at their stores or offices salesman samples are required.

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Medium	Vary	Style Specification	Promotion

Synonyms: sales sample, marketing sample, showroom sample, etc. 

4. Photo samples

The samples which are developed for advertising photographs or catalog layouts are called photoshoot samples. When product lines are sold on a “click and brick” basis photo samples are required. Photo samples may be made without final trimming such as labels but the outlook of the garment must be correct silhouette and color. It represents exactly what the finished product will look like when shipped. Usually, samples are made in a smaller size to fit the photo frame unless otherwise specified. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Small	1-2 Pcs.	Style Specification	Promotion

Synonyms: Ad sample, photoshoot sample, catalog sample, editorial sample etc.

5. Size set samples

The samples that are developed from graded patterns to evaluate consistency across all sizes are called size set samples. Buyers evaluate the samples on a dress form or on a fit model from different size ranges for a specific style. The fit and look should be the same for all sizes from small to extra large. The human body is simply not consistent from one person to the next. The size set sample certainly helps to perfect the fit but it certainly doesn’t make the world perfect. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	All	4-6 Pcs.	Style Specification	Fit consistency

Synonyms: Size run, sizing sample etc.

6. Wash Sample

Samples that are developed to evaluate after-wash appearance or performance called wash samples. In the case of prewashed styles, buyers may recommend the factory to submit washed garment or panel to review the wash shade band or technique obviously for denim or other fabrication as needed.

Other than washed samples buyers may recommend the factory submit samples for in-house wash test to check dimensional stability, hand, pilling, spirality, and so on.

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Wash performance

Synonyms: Shade band sample, wash test sample, etc.

7. Preproduction Sample

Samples that are developed from the final production pattern with all actual materials to represent the production standard are called preproduction samples. Preproduction samples are essentially an example of what will be produced in bulk production. The primary purpose of the sample is to identify any inconsistency as early as possible; so that corrective measures could be taken prior to starting bulk production. Buyers evaluate the appearance, materials, construction, color, and measurements of submitted samples. On occasion, the buyer allows submitting PPS without all the finishing accessories such as price ticket, hangtag, hanger, etc. Though the buyer allows samples without final accessories it could be safest to provide everything so there is no room for misunderstanding. Preproduction samples must be approved prior to starting bulk production. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Style evaluation

Synonyms: PP sample, pre-pro sample, sew-by sample, read seal sample etc.

8. Garment Performance Test Sample

Samples that are prepared to evaluate performance standards, are called performance test samples. Usually, testing is done at third-party facilities such as SGS, ITS, CTL, TÜV SÜD, Bureau Veritas, etc. Often buyers assign the testing lab and recommend submitting garments directly and asking for copies of the test reports. A series of performance standards may be tested including dimensional stability, seam strength, seam slippage, button pull, colorfastness, etc. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Performance

Synonyms: Test sample, GPT, 

9. Production Sample

Garments that are picked from the early output when production has begun to evaluate the desired quality level, called production or top of production (TOP) samples. Buyers require the factory to submit production samples to review the product specifications that the factory is supposed to follow during production. Bulk production should be the same quality as the preproduction sample that the buyer approved earlier. If the order quantity is bigger several submissions may be recommended. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	Medium	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Production standard

Synonyms: TOP sample, Bulk sample, gold seal sample etc.

10. Shipment Sample

Garments that are picked from actual shipment to review the floor-ready specification, called shipment samples. When production and finishing processes are done and goods are ready for shipment a few samples are kept aside by the factory as packed. Shipment samples represent the products with required folding, labeling, tagging, and bagging. Buyer may recommend factory to submit samples on or before shipment either for review or shipping approval. 

Materials	Size	Qty	Ref.	Purpose
Actual	All	2-3 Pcs.	Style Specification	Packing Standard

Synonyms: Keeping sample, Fulfillment sample

Apparel sample plays significant roles in line development, perfecting the styles, and production quality. The level of attention given to the perfection of styling and fit depends on the quality expectation of the target customer and the standard of the buyer. Sample approval efficiency attributes to a sustainable relationship between buyer and seller.

Ref.

Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management

Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis

Garment Technology for Fashion Designers

Buyers’ SOP

Interview with sample QC

https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/

https://www.researchgate.net/

https://www.apparelsearch.com/

https://fashion-incubator.com/