Yarn
count: Yarn
count is a numerical expression of the fineness or coarseness of yarn. The size of
yarn to be used in a fabric is determined by the purpose of the fabric. All types
of textile yarn can be produced in different thicknesses and the relationship
between the length and weight of a specific yarn. There are many traditional
counting systems which are either fixed-weight systems that show the number of
unit lengths of a given weight or fixed-length systems that show the
weight of a given length.
1. Commonly
used yarn counting systems
1. English Cotton Count: It is the
number of hanks of 840 yards in one pound yarn. e.g. In the English cotton count
system 40Ne as it expresses one pound of yarn containing 40 hanks, each of 840 yards in length. Usually used for spun yarn.
2. Tex: Weight in grams per 1000 meters or 1
km of yarn e.g. If 1000 meters of yarn weigh 25 grams, then the yarn count is
25T. Usually used for sewing thread.
3. Denier: Weight in grams per 9000 meters of
yarn. For e.g. if 9000 meters of yarn weigh 225 grams, then the yarn count is 225D.
Usually used for filament yarn.
4. Metric System: It is the number of hanks of
1000 meters in one kg yarn. e.g. In Metric System 20NM as it implies in one kg of yarn contains 20 number
of hanks each of 1000 meter length
5. Jute Count System: Weight in
pounds per 14,400 yards (spindle) of yarn e.g. if 14,400 yards of a jute yarn
weigh 5 pounds, then the count is 5
pounds/spindle.
6. Worsted System: Number of hanks of 560 yards
in one pound.
2. Indirect
Count vs. Direct Count
Indirect count: It implies the higher the yarn count the finer the yarn in size. English Cotton Count and Metric Count are indirect counts. e.g. 20NE, 30NE, 40NE, 60NE, 80NE or 20NM, 30NM,40NM, 50NM, 60NM thinner respectively.
Direct Count: It implies the higher the yarn count the thicker the yarn in size. Tex and Denier are direct counts. e.g. 5T , 10T , 20T , 30T , 40T or 40D , 50D , 60D , 70D thicker respectively.
Indirect count: It implies the higher the yarn count the finer the yarn in size. English Cotton Count and Metric Count are indirect counts. e.g. 20NE, 30NE, 40NE, 60NE, 80NE or 20NM, 30NM,40NM, 50NM, 60NM thinner respectively.
Direct Count: It implies the higher the yarn count the thicker the yarn in size. Tex and Denier are direct counts. e.g. 5T , 10T , 20T , 30T , 40T or 40D , 50D , 60D , 70D thicker respectively.
3. Plied
Yarn and Single Equivalent/Resultant Count.
Plied Yarn: When two or more singles are twisted together, is called plied yarn
e.g. 40NE/2, Have to read “Forties Two” it implies two 40NE yarns are plied together.
Single Equivalent: It implies the unique thickness or diameter of plied yarn.
e.g. 40NE/2 Single equivalent will be 20NE
70D /2 Single equivalent will be 140D
The formula for single equivalent
Plied Yarn: When two or more singles are twisted together, is called plied yarn
e.g. 40NE/2, Have to read “Forties Two” it implies two 40NE yarns are plied together.
Single Equivalent: It implies the unique thickness or diameter of plied yarn.
e.g. 40NE/2 Single equivalent will be 20NE
70D /2 Single equivalent will be 140D
The formula for single equivalent
