Introduction to Garment Pattern

Patterns are two dimensional templates or guides for cutting fabric to form a garment. Pattern may be made by designers or professional pattern maker. Different types of pattern are used

1.   Basic Block

A basic block is a set of pattern pieces for the simplest garment of particular type that reflects a set of measurement and fit for the sample size. Seam allowances are not included in block. The term basic block, sloper, and master pattern may be used interchangeably. An apparel buyer has basic blocks for each type of product in their product line: shirts, pants, jackets, and so on. 

2.   Style block

A style block is a variation of the basic block that includes modifications of parts of the basic block to include design ease and positioning of design feature. Style block become patterns with seam allowances added to the basic shapes of the blocks, pieces.

Design or styling ease includes structural features that are built into a  style to provide the silhouette and appearance the designer wants.

Positioning relates to the designers’ decision on where to place pockets, trims, hem, and connecting seam for garment components in a style block. Positioning decisions affect the comfort and aesthetic appearance of a garment and incorporated   in style block.

3. First Pattern
A first pattern interprets the designer’s sketch into two dimensional shapes for each garment components. A first pattern may be developed by manipulating a basic block or a style block, or by drafting or draping.

Drafting is a method of pattern development that builds pattern shapes from specific measurement. Pattern maker may use a computer aided design system to draft patterns or, manipulate basic block. In the apparel industry, pattern development through flat pattern or drafting technique may be called drafting.

Draping is a method of pattern development that involves developing a pattern by manipulating fabric usually muslin directly on a body from.

4. Production pattern

Production patterns are accurate, final pattern that meet all fit, quality and production requirements. Once design has been accepted into the line and styling and fit have been perfected and approved production pattern are made.  Production pattern are eventually graded into all sizes that a manufacturer intends to produce.

5. Graded pattern

The production patterns which are graded into specific sizes called graded pattern.

Pattern grading is the process of increasing and decreasing the dimensions of each pattern piece according to a buyer’s grade rule of proportional change. Graded pattern are then used to make marker.

Grade rule is a proportional difference in measurement between sizes in the specific measurement.

Pattern Grain Line: the pattern grain line is a line drawn on each pattern piece (from end to end) to indicate how the pattern should align lengthwise grain of the fabric. Regardless of where the grain line is drawn on pattern, it will always places on the fabrics so that the grain line is parallel to the selvage edge. Direction of grain line as follows;

I. straight/ vertical grain line : vertical grain lines are drawn parallel to centre for garment cut on straight grain.

II. Bias grain line: bias grain lines are drown at right angle to centre (45­⁰ angle for true bias).

III.    Crosswise grain line : crosswise grain lines are drawn at right angles to center for garments cut on crosswise grain.

Grain line arrows

I.    End to end:

An arrows placed at both ends of the grain line indicate that the top of the pattern may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric (for fabrics without a nap).

 II.    Top or bottom:

An arrow placed at the top or the bottom of the grain line indicates that the pattern must be placed in one direction only (for fabrics with a nap).

Pattern instruction
To enable the garment to be made up correctly the following instruction must be marked on the pattern.

1.    The name of each piece

2.    Center back and center front

3.    The number of piece to be cut

4.    Folds

5.    Balance mark

6.    Seam allowance

7.    Construction line

8.    Grain line

Fig-Pant's Pattern