Types of Marker

Marker type significantly depends on the form in which the fabric is presented for cutting, fabric as well as garment symmetry, and arrangement of pattern piece on the marker.

1. Mixed Marker

A mixed marker is the most popular type of marker. When the garment is asymmetric, or for the purpose of obtaining good efficiency, the mixed marker is used on fabric that is spread open and face up on the table. For most woven fabrics and flat open knits, mixed markers offer the best utilization of fabric because the patterns are placed wherever they fit best in the length of the marker.

2. Open Marker

An open marker is the second most popular type of marker. When the garment is asymmetric, or for the purpose of obtaining the best quality from the spreading process, the open marker keeps pairs of parts (left and right) close together in the length of the marker. The open marker is used on fabric that is spread open and face up on the table. For most woven fabrics and flat open knits, open markers offer the second-best utilization of fabric.

3. Closed Marker

The closed marker is used under special circumstances. As only one-half of the pattern set is used, the fabric spread on the table is folded in its length and is oriented face to face. After cutting, any one pattern piece would yield the left and right piece of the garment when choosing a pair of consecutive plies. Styles that have certain pattern pieces that cover the full width (a one-piece back versus a left and right back pattern piece) can be oriented on the control fold of the marker. Cutting through at the fold yields a one-piece part.

4. Closed-On-Open

The closed-on-open marker is similar to the closed marker. However, since there is no fold at the selvage, the pattern pieces must be either left or right. Styles with one-piece parts like a one-piece back panel can not be made using a closed-on-open marker without blocking and re-laying. For any one part in the marker, a pair of consecutive plies of fabric (spread face to face) produce the left and right pieces of the garment. Fabric dyeing must be consistent to use this method, as garments will be constructed of two consecutive plies of fabric.

5. Blocking and re-laying

In the case of asymmetric garments when one pattern in the garment is full body width (rather than left and right patterns), blocking and re-laying in the spreading process may be used in conjunction with a closed-on-open marker. In this marker, only the larger pattern is placed in the marker for two consecutive sizes. After cutting the cut block is divided in half and the smaller sized pattern of that part is placed on the second half and then recut for smaller size.

6. Single Section Marker

When the patterns of all the different sizes are scattered throughout the full length of the marker (placed wherever they fit the best), the marker is known as a non-sectional or single-section marker. This marker type has the highest utilization of fabric (highest efficiency) as the highest quantities of patterns (of all marker types) are fitted together. The marker often has multiple sets of the most commonly ordered sizes depending on the ratio of sizes ordered.

7. Section Marker

Markers with more than one section, known as section markers are utilized when the order ratios are unknown in advance. The section marker facilitates producing different order ratios using the same marker through step spreading. Although at the lowest efficiency, single-section markers permit total flexibility in matching varied order ratios.