Operators depend on marks for alignment, placement of parts, and special treatment during the assembly process. When using operator-controlled cutting equipment, it is the cutter’s responsibility to transfer the marks accurately to the cut garment parts. Computer-controlled cutters mark garment parts during the cutting process.
i. Notchers
Notcher is a device used for edge marking. Many garment parts require that notches are cut into the age of them to enable alignment during sewing with other garment parts. The previously described method of cutting can be used to cut notches, but accuracy depends on the operator. Specialized notching equipment provides greater accuracy.
1. Knife notcher
The Cold or knife notcher is a manually operated upright, cylindrical device, which cuts the side of a block to a predetermined distance. Both straight and V notches are available.
2. Hot Notcher.
A hot notcher is a handheld device with a vertical electrical element that scorches fabric at the point of contact. Temperature and notch depth are adjustable depending on the fabric. A hot notcher is a good choice for edge marks on natural fiber and knit fabrics because it makes clearly visible marks that do not disappear. When used properly, it does not cut, pucker, or ravel the fabric. It is not a good choice for thermoplastic fibers because it will melt the fabric plies together.
3. Ink Notcher.
The ink notcher is similar to the hot notcher. Instead of burning a notch into the edge of the fabric, this device leaves a trace of UV marking ink on the edge of the fabric. This ink is visible under UV lights at the sewing station.
Figure : Notcher
ii. Drill Cloth Drills are used when a mark is needed inside the body of a part to indicate the point of a dart, location of a pocket slash, or position of an interior component such as a patch pocket, or appliqué. Drills are used to mark an entire lay-up at one time. drills are more productive than chalk marking on individual parts.
1. Cold drill
The Cold drill is a device mounting a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass through. Drill is positioned on top of a lay-up, motor rotates the needle, which penetrates the top ply and drills its way through to the bottom ply. Penetration is made by needles of varied diameter (3/64- to 3/8) and point types. Cold drill used on that fabrics where the hole remain visible until sewing operator comes to use it.
Fig: Cold Drill
2. Hot drill The Hot drill uses a solid shaft that is electrically heated and drill leaves a burn mark on fabric. Hot drill may be used on loosely woven fabrics, where the hole may close up.
3. Hypodermic drill
A hypodermic or dye spot drill may also be used. It has hollow needles which contain marking fluid and leaves a small mark on each ply of fabrics with fluid as the needle is withdrawn.
4. Thread mark
The String marking is a device having a needle that penetrates all the plies of the lay. During drilling, a long thread is passed through the lay which is then cut with scissor between each ply, leaving a few centimeters visible on each garment panel. When fabric is multi-colored or loosely woven, or if it is important that no mark remains on the fabric, a thread mark is used.
Fig: Thread Mark
iii. Inside Slasher A slasher is an adapted version of a vertical knife used to cut out areas from the center of garment parts. Vertical straight knife machines make only lateral cuts into a spread and therefore cannot be used to cut out areas from the center of garment parts. The Inside slasher has a double edge blade that reciprocates, and is inserted from the top ply of the bundle and cuts around the section of fabric to be removed. Slasher may be used for slash pocket.
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