Identification of Industrial Sewing Needles

There are three parameters that are generally used for the identification of sewing needles such as system, point, and size. It is very much significant to select the right needle for the right operation. If the needle type does not match the machine types, fabric character, and thread size then it may cause thread breakage, skipped stitches, poor stitch uniformity, and fabric damage.

1. System

A needle system defines the dimensions of a needle to suit the machine type. Needle systems are classified based primarily on three measurements: eye-to-butt length, shank length, and shank diameter, and specific to different stitch classes. Needle systems are expressed as an alphanumeric code with a multiplication sign within. For example, DBX1 is also referred to as 16X231 and TQX1 is also referred to as 175X1. To date, there is no uniform categorization of needle system numbers across major needle manufacturers. It is advisable to check with the machine manufacturer for the suitability of the needle system for the machine.

Machine Name	Needle System
Single Needle Lock Stitch	DBX1
Double Needle Lock Stitch	DPX5
Overlock	DCX1/ DCX27
Flat Lock / Feed off the Arm	UYX128
Bartack	DPX17
Kansi Special	UOX113
Button Hole Stitch	DOX558
Feed Off the Arm	TVX64
Button Stitch	TQX1
Blind Stitch	LWX6T

2. Needlepoint

Needlepoint is the area below the eye including the tip. The point and tip make the initial penetration into the fabric and must be appropriate for the fabric being sewn. Needlepoint may be classified as follows

Cloth Point

Cloth points are designed for stitching woven and knit fabric. Cloth point needle penetrate through the fabric pushing the yarn aside. Cloth point needles are two types

1.   Setpoint

The tip of the needle point which attains the penetration has the shape of a cone is known as set point also called a round point. It is commonly used on woven fabrics.

2.   Ballpoint

The tip of the needle point which attains deflection rather than penetration has the shape of a fine ball is known as ball point. It is primarily used on knit and coarse yarn woven fabrics.

Cut Point

Cut point needles are designed for stitching lather and vinyl. In sewing these materials, the needle must cut through the materials instead of pushing the yarn aside.

3.Needle Size 
The size of the needle is the diameter of the needle, which is decided based on fabric to be sewn and sewing thread characteristics. There are different needle sizing systems including Number metric (NM), Singer, Union Special etc. Generally in all needles, two size numbers are written today that is, the Number Metric (NM) and Singer system. 

Number Metric (NM)

The Number Metric system represents the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter measured just above the scarf but not at any reinforced part of the blade. For example, an NM 100 needle is 1.00 millimeters in diameter, while an Nm 50 needle is half a millimeter in diameter. The thickness of the blade below is 1.00 mm wide which is shown in Nm as 100.

Singer system 

Similarly, Singer's system seemed to use a different sizing designation but size always refers to the diameter of the blade of the needle. The size designations used by Singer are arbitrary and have no actual reference to mm or inches. 

Thread Size Vs. Needle Size

Thread Size		Needle Size
Tex	NE	Singer	Metric (NM)
18	60/2	9-10	65-70
24	50/2	10-11	70-75
27	40/2	10-12	70-80
30	50/5	10-12	70-80
40	40/3	10-14	70-90
60	20/2	14-16	90-100
80	20/3	16-18	100-110
105	20/4	18-21	110-130
120	16/3	18-21	110-130
150	12/3	19-22	120-140
300	20/9	24-26	180-230

Sewing Thread Size and Needle Size